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St eustachius' bonnet (Sprang Bonnets part 3)

3/2/2023

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Part 1 of sprang bonnets starts here
Part 2 of sprang bonnets starts here
Picture

The right side of the Paumgartner alter gives us an image of St Eustachius, in military uniform, and weaving what could be a sprang bonnet.

The painting was done by Albrecht Drurer, an artist of some repute, in the early 1500s.
​
I am thinking that the bonnet could contain the padding wanted if you are going to wear a metal helmet.

Looking at the bonnet, I am thinking that the dark cloth could represent the netted structure of sprang. The yellow stripes are smooth, vertical stripes. This to me would indicate what I call vertical twining.
To make such a bonnet, I set up a 16 inch long (41cm) warp of a dark green 2/8 wool and a worsted weight yellow, alternating 10 green and 2 yellow, ending with 10 green. 
Picture
Picture
Along the lower loops, I passed the yellow threads through the green loops, and the green threads through the yellow loops.
I worked the green threads in an interlinking stitch, and the yellow threads in a vertical twining stitch. I described the vertical twining in my post of Feb 2, 2023.
Picture
At the centre, I chained the green threads, to stabilise the cloth. I planned that the chain would sit on the inside of the cap.
To gather the end loops, I divided the end loops into two groups, separated by color. I slid one color of loops on one blunt sewing needle, and the other color of loops onto the other blunt sewing needle.
Picture
Picture
Dividing the loops in this manner allows me to snug the loops into a far smaller circle.
Picture
Picture
When the loops are tightly gathered there is a reverse-widow's-peak in the centre of the forehead.
To avoid this reverse widow's peak, I reserved the dark loops at either edge, did not include them in the gathering. Instead I stitched them together in a tight seam at the centre front of the bonnet. 
Picture
Picture
Picture
The reserved dark loops, sewn together at the forehead, make for a smoother line to which I could attach a brow band. The brow band is a length of weaving, made on a tape loom.
I gathered the loops at the back of the bonnet in a fashion similar to the treatment of the loops at the front of the bonnet..
Picture
Picture
I stitched the brow band to the front 3/4 of the bonnet, leaving the band free at the very back of the bonnet.
I thought that a person will want to be able to expand and contract the circumference of the bonnet. I pulled the un-attached ends of the brow band through the hole so that the brow band anchors the back of the hat to the head.
Picture
Picture
The brow band was made long enough to go around the head 3 times, and tie at the back. The ends of the brow band come out of the hole at the back of the bonnet, go around the head, and can be tied snugly at the back of the bonnet

I am curious to hear how such a bonnet works for people who actually wear 16th century armour and metal helmets. 
SPRANG BONNETS PART 4
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Carol acknowledges that we are on Treaty 1 territory, the traditional gathering place of the Anishinaabe, Cree, Oji-Cree, Dakota and Dene people and the traditional homeland of the Métis people. Carol also acknowledges that sprang is part a meany indigenous tradition and fuond in various forms all over the world. Let us re-discover this tecking together.
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