Linen Shirt

While in Vancouver earlier this year, I stopped in at Maiwa on Granville Island. I will be teaching a sprang class there next year. I wanted to have a look at their yarns, to evaluate their use for my students. I saw some lovely linen yarn.

I decided to try to make yet another sprang shirt, using this linen yarn. OK, I purchased seven skeins.
Wanting to use some of those colorful motifs from Coptic bonnets, I set up a multicolored warp.

This piece will be the center back of the shirt.

Right off the frame, the piece curled up.

To un-curl the piece, I blocked it ... that is, I got it wet, and then pinned it to my ironing board.

Now for two pieces to go on either side of the center back. These pieces will go over the shoulder, starting and ending at the hem of the shirt.

I decided these side panels would be a more solid color. And I decided to try an interlacing stitch.

Starting to assemble the shirt.

Now for the front of the shirt. I decided to use the lighter green as the background for the front of the shirt. The first time I sewed the front into the shirt, there was a clear difference in tension (rows per inch) between the lower part of the front, and the side pieces. I re-sewed it a couple of times before getting it right.

The first time I sewed the front panel in, there was unacceptable puckering in the lower half.

I un-sewed and re-sewed several times, until acceptable. The secret was to disobey those rules about a completely invisible seam ... and not always align up rows, but rather to avoid puckering.

Now for two narrow pieces to go under the arms.

Two narrow bands, to go along the sides, under the arms.

The collar is a narrow piece of circular warp.

And lastly, sleeves. I shaped the sleeves as I went along.

I made the two sleeves at the same time, one sleeve at the top, the other at the bottom of the frame.

Once cut apart, I blocked the sleeves before sewing them into the shirt.

I chained around the hem, to give a firmer edge to the shirt.

Chaining across the loops at the hem to make it a bit more firm.

The firmer quality of the hem will mean I will be less likely to snag on things when I wear the shirt.

I finished assembling the shirt, and washed it.

The shirt, lying flat to dry.

Look for me this summer, sporting my new sprang shirt.