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Preparing the Warp for the Washington-Braddock Sash

11/27/2025

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The first step in making the replica sash is ordering the yarn. According to my records, the size of silk I need was called "machine embroidery silk". Yes, it's the gauge of sewing thread. And it needs to be reeled silk, not spun silk. I'm wanting my sash to be able to do the job that historically was its purpose: to transport the wounded off the field of battle. More about that later.

I contacted my usual supplier. She's located in the US, and tells me that all silk comes from China. Due to the current political situation, she's not ordering anything from China for the foreseeable future. So I needed to look elsewhere. I did find what I wanted from a Japanese firm. Habu Silk sells de-gummed organzine. The length per weight looked right. Then a colleague in the UK said she had quite a bit of silk, the 60-2 I was wanting. So I purchased her stash.
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The original sash featured pairs of threads in the warp. The threads were not plied, but rather sit parallel in the sash. This seems to be typical for sprang sashes from eh 1700s. The reason for this, according to Coby Reindeers-Baas had to do with rules set by weaving guilds in Europe at that time. There was strong bias for "spindle spun" thread as warp (as opposed to "spinning wheel spun" thread). 
I've decided that the first thing I need to do with this silk, is to combine skeins, putting them into skeins of parallel threads.
OK, going from the umbrella swift to the skein, the two threads do twist around each other. They twist around each other once for every time around the warping pegs. That slight amount of twist is OK with me. I figure it will help in keeping the pairs together as I work the sprang.
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The challenge is to combine the two skeins at the same rate. I'm trying to avoid tangles. I'm wanting have the double threads ready, wanting to avoid tangling when I get to warping my sprang frame. 

Here's a photo of the tangling that sometimes happens as I wind off the skein, as I combine the two strands.

To avoid the tangle, I try as much as possible to turn the umbrella swift to un-wind, and to avoid pulling on the strand. 
​Working alone, and managing two umbrella swifts, it's slow going.
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I am disappointed with myself, when I see that one of the skeins I created has some extra loops in it. Apparently I did not keep those two strands running under the same tension. 
Will just have to re-wind that skein, to even up the length in both strands.
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The goal is to create skeins, each composed of two strands side-by-side. I try to maintain order by tying every 50 times around or so. Hoping this will help to keep the threads in an orderly skein through the next step which is the dying.
​Tying the skeins also allows me to count the number of times I went around my warping frame, measuring the length. I like to be confident that I have sufficient length for my project. I calculate I'll need 12000 feet of this double strand for my warp, that's 4000 yards.
The next step will be dying the silk. I sent three small samples to the curator. Waiting to hear what she thinks, whether or not any of those reds will be the color they want.
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The Washington-Braddock sash again

11/16/2025

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It all started back in 2009. I was looking at a photo of a sash with a date of 1709, and the hairs on the back of my neck stood up. I thought, "That's exactly 300 years ago".

Encouraged by the success of my book Fingerweaving Untangled. I was contemplating writing another book. What would be the subject? What textile method was I sufficiently familiar with, that needed an instruction book? The answer was sprang.
Something people said they really liked about Fingerweaving Untangled was that it included pieces from museums. What pieces could I include in my book on sprang? Perhaps I could write to museums and get permission to use photos of bonnets from Scandinavian peat bogs or ancient Egypt. But, I thought, my audience would be mostly North America. Are there any examples of North American sprang? 
Looking through Peter Collingwood's book Techniques of Sprang I found an excellent example in the photos at the back. There is a photo that says it's George Washington's sash. I thought to myself, "That's the piece to entice North Americans". So I wrote to George Washington's Mount Vernon. Certainly they were the ones holding that sash.
The photo they sent to me was of a different sash (apparently George Washington owned more than one sprang sash). The sash in the collection at George Washington's Mount Vernon is the one given to him while serving in the British Army in 1855. His commanding officer, Edward Braddock, mortally wounded, passed the sash to Washington, effectively handing over command of the troops.
​The photo they sent featured interesting lace patterns, probably do-able, I figured, with sprang, but the photo did not show the mirror-image aspect that always happens with sprang. Thus began some back-and-forth correspondence asking them to verify that it is indeed a sprang sash. 
Something compelled me forward in this project. Something about the date of 1709, being exactly 300 years ahead of that day in 2009 when I first saw that photo.In the end, I offered to come visit to answer my own questions. If they'd give me ample time to examine it, I promised that I'd make them a replica.
This was not a totally rash offer. I'd worked through several sections of Peter Collingwood's book. I'd re-created several lace patterns featured in his book. The challenge would be to work with such fine material and create something larger than I'd previously attempted.
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Carol and the Braddock-Washington sash at George Washington's Mount Vernon
I had met up with the sprang technique in the 1990s. Fascinated, I needed to learn more. Local yarn stores taught classes in knitting and crochet. The local hand weavers guild offered instruction in loom weaving. No where could I find a class on the subject of sprang. I decided that I would need to create the opportunity to travel and that my teachers would be examples of sprang in collections.
The Braddock-Washington sash was one such teacher, and I learned a great deal from that sash.
I did succeed in making a copy of that sash, and delivered it to George Washinton's Mount Vernon in the spring of 2013.

​At that time they had just completed a new visitor's centre, complete with an area to display garments worn by George and Martha Washington. The trouble was that the space had been already completely planned and there was no place for my sash to be displayed. A number of people have told me that they nevertheless have succeeded in seeing my replica, with special arrangements made ahead of time.



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Carol and her replica sash
The people at George Washington's Mount Vernon tell me that the replica sash has created much interest. One aspect was the test of the story that the mortally wounded General Braddock was carried off the field on the sash. People have asked whether or not this could have really happened. My replica has allowed this theory to be tested ... and yes, the silk fibers are strong enough.
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All this comes up for me because of a series of events last Summer. The eventual outcome is that I am now committed to making another copy of that sash for George Washington's Mount Vernon. ​​​​​They will be unveiling a new display on July 4, 2026. That display will include my replica sash, and, having a replica on display, it's their policy that they need a second replica. Hence this, my latest project.

Figuring people like you, out there in the world of the internet, might be interested in the process of making such a sash, I am hereby committing myself to try to remember to blog about the process. 
Yeah, if you look, you'll see I've not been very faithful to this blog over recent years. But I promise to give it a try, to try to remember to update this blog over the course of the next few months, keeping you informed of the progress of this project: replicating (again) the Washington-Braddock sash.
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Carol acknowledges that we are on Treaty 1 territory, the traditional gathering place of the Anishinaabe, Cree, Oji-Cree, Dakota and Dene people and the traditional homeland of the Métis people. Carol also acknowledges that sprang is part of many  indigenous traditions  and found in various forms all over the world. Let us re-discover this technique together.
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