November 2025
Making sprang garments, I have sometimes found that the arm opening leaves something to be desired. Sometimes, the shoulder shape could use some moulding, and the sleeve can help with this.
Sometimes the shoulder lacks the necessary slope, and I am disappointed with the arm hole opening. Sometimes when I put on the shirt without the sleeves, it reminds me of Romulan fashion (for Star Trek fans). I have found that a sleeve can help.
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Circular Warp
You might think of sleeves as tubes that cover your arms. Circular warp is an excellent way to make a tube. The length of the circular warp must allow for the circumference of the upper arm.
I finish the circuit with an added weft. I was careful to place the weft line in the circuit at the underarm position when setting it into the arm hole. In this manner the sleeve is a bit shorter under the arm. |
Flat Warp
One option for flat warp sleeves is to create two rectangles (one for each sleeve). Fold the rectangles, and sew them into tubes. Attach the tubes to the arm holes. Such sleeves have a join line mid-way up the sleeve. I've not liked this concept, hence have not explored it.
Flat warp offers you the option to make the two sleeves at the same time. In this case, I usually work from cuff to shoulder and cut the two sleeves apart. I hide the cut ends in the seam joining sleeve to armhole. This is an approach that entices me.
Flat warp also offers the opportunity to create a sleeve cap. This will mean less material bunching up under the arm.
Measure from cuff to the top of the shoulder.
Add an allowance for up-take, and double this length as you will work the two sleeves end-to-end. Add a good eight inches for tying knots.
Begin work at the hem of the sleeve.
Flat warp offers you the option to make the two sleeves at the same time. In this case, I usually work from cuff to shoulder and cut the two sleeves apart. I hide the cut ends in the seam joining sleeve to armhole. This is an approach that entices me.
Flat warp also offers the opportunity to create a sleeve cap. This will mean less material bunching up under the arm.
Measure from cuff to the top of the shoulder.
Add an allowance for up-take, and double this length as you will work the two sleeves end-to-end. Add a good eight inches for tying knots.
Begin work at the hem of the sleeve.
Work until you have the desired length from cuff to under-arm. To create the sleeve cap, you cease working the threads at the selvedge. I cut the edge threads at this point, in groups of 4 or 6 .... depending, and tie a knot close to the cloth on both S and Z sides.
I continue working rows on ever fewer numbers of threads to shape the top of the sleeve. |
The cut ends will be hidden in the seam joining the sleeve to the arm hole.
I have experimented with a method to create a sleeve that is narrower at the cuff, and wider at the shoulder.
For a sleeve cuff that is tighter, you might begin by using threads two-at-a-time to create a cuff, and then switch to a looser stitch.
Another option is to add threads as you work from cuff to shoulder.
For a sleeve cuff that is tighter, you might begin by using threads two-at-a-time to create a cuff, and then switch to a looser stitch.
Another option is to add threads as you work from cuff to shoulder.
If I were to do this again, I would try to increase the width of the sleeve more quickly adding two or more loops per row.